Hamburg - Day 2

It is almost like a Camino day today.  We got up early, left at 6am and finished by early afternoon. But it is NOT like the camino that we walked less than 10 km, took lots of public transportation and our lunch was schnitzel and salmon burger for lunch. That is not a pilgrim meal.

We woke up this morning, or I should say that I woke up both of us by getting off the bed early because despite the tiredness, I could not sleep well last night, partly thinking about the adventures today.  The kids in the street outside talking and laughing at 2am did not help.  We set out a little after 6am to catch Fish Market Sunday in Hamburg which would have started at 5am.  We are lucky that the first and only full day in Hamburg is a Sunday which is the only day that the Fish Market is open. We took a scenic route by mistake and ended up at the market around 7am but it does not disappoint.

Fischmarkt

Even before we are at the market, we saw people lugging huge baskets of fruits home. It has to be good. We watched a video about the Fischmarkt and thought we knew what it is like but the reality actually beat the expectation.  The market has everything and surprisingly not a lot of fresh fish.  We saw traditional market vendors such as flowers, clothings and souvenirs. What we are not used to is the abundant of foods in different forms. There are burgers or sandwiches of all kinds of fish.  There might be more traditional sandwiches but if there are, we did not pay much attention to them. There are fried seafood and fishkebab, etc.  In other words, all kinds of fish foods. And the market extends a long way,  Our first plan was to take a quick tour of the entire place and then double back to the fish food vendor that we like for breakfast.  Turns out that we never got back that far.  We did walk through the entire market but by that time, the first place that we liked has been superseded by something else down the line.  We finished at the Altona Fischmarkt Ferry pier where there is live band playing in a building. They are also selling beers there so eventually I could not resist and had a beer after fishkebab breakfast at around 9am.  Back to the fruit baskets, we first saw one fruit basket being put together for one of the customers.  Essentially, it is like a buffet where you stuff anything you can into the basket.  In the case, the vendor would fill it unless you have specific fruits you like.  From my limited German, I thought he said the basket costs 50 Euro.  We left thinking that is reasonable with that much fresh fruits.  Further down, we saw a big group of people gathering around a truck bed served as a stage where a vendor is stuffing a series of about 12 baskets.  He kept putting stuff in until they are completely full.  After that, people moved up to get the baskets, they are only 10 Euro each!  Gigi wanted one but it would have made travelling a bit awkward and how are we going to consume all those fruits with one day left in Hamburg!?   In any event, there was no way we can get ourselves up to the front to get one of the remaining ones .. unless we wait for the next batch of baskets being made.  Anyhow, the Fischmarkt is quite an amazing place.  No wonder that is completely packed with people.  Next time we come to Hamburg for any extended period of time, we know where to get our fruits.

Fruit Basket Truck

Altona Fischmarkt

Fish Breakfast

Fishkebab

Ferry No, 62

From the Altona Fischmarkt, we got on Ferry No. 62 to begin our poor man's boat tour of the Hamburg Harbour.  The ferry is like a bus with several closely-spaced stops. We stayed on to Finkenwerder and then turned back, taking the same stops and finally we got off at the other terminal point at Pier/Bruck 3 of Landungsbucken. We are blessed with very good weather,  a bit cooler air threatening to rain but never did.  We did see all of the Elbe River sights with the cargo terminal and the Hamburg skyline.  Perhaps a little bit of information from a guide might have helped but we enjoyed the clear sky, the cool breeze and the sights for 45 minutes along the river.

Lion King themed Ferry

Walking Tour

With the transit card (9am group ticket) that we got from the airport, we took the U-Bahn from Landungsbrucken to Rathaus for our 'free' walking tour.  There is no charge to join the walking tour but there is customary gratuity at the end that people pay whatever they want.  The tour guides typically say that you should pay what you think his/her tour is worth rather than gratuity. That puts it in another category.  Our experience with Sandeman's free walking tours in Madrid and this one are both excellent and we highly recommend them.  The Walking Tour stayed true to its billing.  Since Hamburg has points of interest that are quite far apart, that took a bit of walking but we are pleasantly surprised that it took us to all the important points of interest, and a few more that you don't find on the internet.  Our plan was to cover whatever is left ourselves after the tour but there were only one or two left that are really optional so we did not go back.  Having visited St Pauli on our first day and this complete tour today, we are really happy with our visit of Hamburg.

Rathus - City Hall

ChileHaus

One of the stones commemorating victims of the Nazi

St. Nikolai Church

Ground zero for the big fire of 1842

Foods

As I said, we finished all that in the early afternoon so we headed back towards our hotel on the U-Bahn knowing that the Rindermarkthalle's restaurants will be open even though the market is closed. We went back to the restaurant Markt Koenig that we saw the first day and sample the other German staples, schnitzel.  I also had the salmon burger, just because.  That has to be one of the better lunches that I have had for a while.

In the evening, we  were introduced by the hotel staff to have Pork Knuckles at HofBrauHaus a short distance away but beyond walking distance.  This time the whole group went and everybody got to experience the subway in Hamburg.  And we are all somewhat surprised by the honest system employed here.  All through the entire day of travelling, there were no official entrance, turnstile or ticket checking on the subway or the ferry.  All that unlimited travel or 11.80 Euro for  up to 5 people. What a deal!   The pork Knuckles are good but make sure you get the individual serving rather than the half serving that they put in with the combo platter.

Schnitzel and Salmon Burger

Dinner

Dinner

Good News

It was an amazing day in Hamburg that was rounded out with the arrival of our friends who were stuck in Heathrow for a couple of days.  Their luggage did not make it but at least they will be on the cruise tomorrow.

Hamburg - Day 1

We have a first hand experience of how a 24-hour daylight day would screw up your head.  We left Toronto at 9pm and arrived 5 hours later at 6am local time in Reykjavik, Iceland.  All through that flight, I was looking at the dusk colour of orange above the horizon out the window of the plane.  There was no urge to sleep because it was actually getting a little brighter all the time. We finally arrived in Hamburg 1pm local time with continuous daylight from Friday morning and eventually to Saturday evening. We nodded off repeatedly in our second leg of our flight from Reykjavik to Hamburg only because we had not slept the entire night.

We were gathering people from Toronto and Hong Kong in Hamburg and it did take a while but things went smoothly given the slight difference in the arrival time. We did not wait for two more from Hong Kong via Heathrow who would have arrived three hours later than us.  Unfortunately, they got caught in the middle of the British Airways computer problem that affect every BA flight Saturday and got stuck in Heathrow.  They have made arrangement now and hopefully they can make the sail with half a day to spare.  Keeping our fingers crossed.

We walked over to the Rindermarkthalle across the road after we arrived at the hotel.  That is a fairly big market building with many places to eat and three different supermarkets, each with slightly different kinds of merchandises.   After two legs of flights spanning about 10 hours without any in-flight meal, we are all ready to try some German foods.  We had curry bratwursts which are quite good.  Gigi had a generous portion of pork in a bun with sauerkraut for 3 Euro.  A good deal.   For some reason, our group members are the happiest with we visit markets and restaurants, anything to do with foodstuffs.

After a short rest, we set out again and walked to Reeperbahn.  The so called red light district is generally quite tame. There are more bars than anything to the east side of the area and more serious business to the west, maybe older side.  We walked through Reeperbahn down to the riverside. Today is also the day with a few cup finals around Europe so we were walking past quite a few groups of football fans along the way having a drinking good time.  Some of them are loud but still too early for things to get out of hand.

We were going to have a walking tour Sunday morning after the Fischmarkt but the rest of the group will be doing hop-on hop-off bus boat tours on Sunday.  We walked along the riverside and found a booth with tours and worked out a deal.  The tour operator then introduced us to the entrance of the Elbe Tunnel.  We have all read about the tunnel but have not figured out how to get there. That came as a welcome surprise. A walk across the river gave us fantastic views of the Hamburg skyline.  That was the last bit of adventure on a very long and tiring Friday-Saturday combo.

Port 6 - Kirkwall

Kirkwall, Scotland

Arrival: 8 am (tender)

Departure: 8pm

Currency: Pounds, interchangeable with British pounds, (1 CAD = 0.6 £), some shops accept US or Euro

Overview

Situated on what's known as the "Mainland" of the Orkney archipelago, Kirkwall is the capital of a group of about 70 islands north of Scotland. The town was founded around 1035, and was declared a Royal Burgh in 1486 by King James III. Kirkwall's most famous landmark is nearly the 900-year old St. Magnus Cathedral, built from beautiful pink and yellow sandstone. Its towering spire dominates the town, even from the water.

Settlements on Orkney's mainland go back to 3000 BC. You can see remains of that civilization at Skara Brae, as well as cairns (man-made piles of stone), Bronze Age stone circles and Iron Age roundhouses, at different sites around the island. The richness of the Orkney's Neolithic past has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.

Vikings arrived in the eighth and ninth centuries and left their mark, too. The name Kirkwall is derived from the old Norse name Kirkjuvagr, which means "Church Bay." The original town is considered to be one of the best-preserved examples of an ancient Norse settlement.

Follow the streets, which snake around this town built of gray stone, and you'll find shopping, dining, banks and more, as well as a museum and historic sites.

Hanging Around

A scattering of restaurants are located just up from Kirkwall Pier, at the intersection of Bridge, Shore and Harbor streets. A pub called Helgi's (14 Harbour Street; open 11 a.m. until late) serves local brews. There's not much to be found around Hatston Quay.

Don't Miss

Skara Brae: Skara Brae, a 5,000-year-old Neolithic village, was uncovered just over 150 years ago when a howling storm blew away dunes that were covering it. The small homes are still partially buried, and you walk on pathways looking down into the excavations. At first, it might not look like much, but as your guide starts to explain, you'll see beds, cupboards, fire places and possible altars and fish tanks -- all made from stone, so the setting is more intact than you'd expect. A small, but excellent, visitor center has exhibits that explain what life was like in the village. And don't miss the recreated home just outside the visitor center as you head to the village site. It really puts what you'll see into context. (Sandwick, off the B9056 road; open 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily April to September and until 4:30 p.m. October to March)

Maes Howe: More than 5,000 years old, Maes Howe is the finest chambered tomb in northern Europe. It's so well preserved because it's constructed from huge sandstone slabs. The treasure inside didn't fare well, though. Vikings plundered it in the 12th century, leaving lewd graffiti on the walls. You enter through a low, 39-foot passageway, which opens up into the main chamber, with three other chambers attached. Timed tickets must be purchased in advance, and groups are limited to 25 people, which means the site isn't offered on many lines' shore excursions. Tours last 20 minutes. (West of Kirkwall at Tormiston Mill, off the A965 road; +44 (0)1856761606; reservations may be made at other Historic Scotland sites by requesting them to telephone for you)

Ring of Brodgar: The circle of standing stones known as the Ring of Brodgar is at a dramatic location, overlooking the Loch of Harray. After climbing uphill on a well-maintained pathway, you reach the huge circle, which is surrounded by a ditch (or henge), bridged in two spots by causeways. Of the original 60 stones, 27 are still standing, and you can wander the site freely.

St. Magnus Cathedral: The vast St. Magnus Cathedral, built by a Norse earl to honor his murdered uncle Magnus, was completed in 1152. It's Britain's most northerly cathedral. As you enter, check out the lovely doorways and huge hinges that were added later. Inside, square pillars next to the organ screen hold relics of St. Magnus and his nephew Earl Rognvald, who had the cathedral built. Later in the day, the sun strikes the exterior wall, illuminating the pink sandstone. (Broad Street; open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday from April to September and 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday from October to March, may be closures for weddings)

Highland Park: About a mile south of Kirkwall, 200-year-old Highland Park is a well-regarded distillery -- one of a handful that still has a traditional malting floor. It offers five tours, from the standard one-hour visit, in which you see a film, tour the distillery and taste 12-year-old Scotch, to the two-hour Magnus Eunson tour, during which you get to sample seven Scotches under the tutelage of a senior guide. The top three tours must be booked in advance, and they include transfers to and from Kirkwall.

Italian Chapel: The remarkable Italian Chapel was built from Quonset huts, barbed wire, concrete and other odds and ends by Italian prisoners during WWII. The prisoners were brought in to build causeways connecting some of the islands in order to block German ships. Working in their free time, the prisoners painted the chapel interior to mimic brick walls, carved stone, vaulted ceilings and buttresses. They created frescos of angelic figures, stained glass windows and an altarpiece depicting the Madonna and Child. An ornate scrollwork screen and gates surrounding the sanctuary were made from scrap metal. It's a true testament to dedication and ingenuity. (On Lambholm Island, about eight miles south of Kirkwall; +44 (0)1856 872856; open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. April to September and until 4:30 p.m. October to March)

Skaill House: Built in 1620, Skaill House is located near Skara Brae. The house was originally the country manor of a bishop, though it's been expanded through the years. There's a rather eclectic assortment of furnishings inside, but one item of note is Captain Cook's china set, which made its way there when his ship docked at Stromness after his death. You'll also see good examples of Orkney chairs. (Sandwick, off the B9056 road; open 9:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. daily April to September)

Earl's Palace: Discover other remnants of Kirkwall's past. Across Palace Road from the cathedral is the early 17th-century Earl's Palace. It's a ruin but interesting to explore, particularly the great hall and adjoining rooms. Across from it is the 12th-century (with a number of remodels) Bishop's Palace, also a ruin.

Orkney Museum: The free Orkney Museum, nearby on Broad Street, is housed in a 16th-century mansion. It's a wonderful treasure-trove of Orkney history, including Pictish stones, artifacts from a Viking boat burial and displays about country life.

Getting Around

On Foot: It's an easy 10-minute walk into the heart of Kirkwall from the Town Dock. Don't attempt it from Hatston Quay. Once you're in the town center, all the sites are very walkable, and some of the main shopping streets are pedestrian zones.

By Bus: Stagecoach operates a public bus route, the T11, which is designed to take tourists to Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar, with time to sightsee at each spot before the bus departs again. Catch it at the Kirkwall Travel Centre on W. Castle Street near the VisitScotland tourism office.

By Taxi: Several taxi services operate in Kirkwall, including Craigies (+44 (0)1856 878787), Bob's (+44 (0)1856 876543) and Kirkwall Taxi (+44 (0)1856 876972). Craigies is the largest operation and can accommodate wheelchair passengers; it also offers mini-vans available for up to eight passengers. We highly recommend booking any taxi tour well in advance of your trip.

By Rental Car: Many travelers to Orkney prefer to drive themselves, so it's essential to book ahead if you're planning to rent a car. W.R. Tullock (Castle Street; +44 (0)1856 873212) is the agent for Avis, National and Europecar, with downtown pickup available. Orkney Car Hire also has rentals available in town (Junction Road, not far from the tourist office; +44 (0)1856 872866)

By Bike: Orkney Cycle on Tankerness Lane, rents bikes at a reasonable rate.

Lunching

There's a bounty of great ingredients in Orkney, including beef and sustainably fished crab, lobster, scallops and salmon. Add to it a tradition of high-quality dairy products, and you know you can dine well. Add to the mix award-winning beers, several cheese-makers, local ice cream, oatcakes (we even found a sundried-tomato version) and Orkney Fudge. The fudge comes in several flavors, including one with Highland Park whisky. You'll find it in gift shops. Be sure to duck into a bakery, too, to check out the vast array of tempting goodies. We bought wonderful shortbread at Argo's Bakery (44 Albert Street).

Traditional Scottish dishes include haggis -- sheep's heart, liver and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal and spices, cooked in a sheep's stomach and traditionally served with a shot of whisky; tatties and neeps (mashed potatoes and turnips) and black pudding (blood sausage with oatmeal).

Judith Glue Real Food Cafe: This is a great resource for all sorts of food gifts, and it offers a cafe at the rear. You'll find lots of tasty choices using high-quality local ingredients, including salads, homemade soups, sandwiches, quiche, stuffed baked potatoes, an all-local cheese board and the "Orkney Smorgasboard," which gives you a taste of seafood, meats, cheeses, oat cakes, bere bannock (a type of local barley cake) and chutney. Don't forget to check the specials board, and if you have room, go for the Orkney fudge cheesecake. (25 Broad Street; +44 (0)1856 874225; open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday)

Strynd Tea Room: If you need a nice cuppa, The Strynd Tea Room is a great choice, and it also serves a delicious assortment of baked goods, including scones, and lunch items. (Broad Street, near the cathedral; +44 (0)1856 871552; open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday)

Helgi's: This establishment dishes up traditional Scottish fare, as well as burgers, fish and chips, and vegetarian dishes -- all adhering as much as possible to fresh, local, organic ingredients. This pub also offers free Wi-Fi for customers. (14 Harbour Street; serving food noon to 9 p.m.; 18 and older only)

Port 5 - Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland

Arrival: 8 am

Departure: 4 pm (next day)

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

Overview

Europe's northernmost and westernmost capital is a delightful destination, part old Norse, part modern city, with a quirky personality of its own. The puffin, troll and elf souvenirs found in gift stores are apt mascots for a city with a decidedly playful streak.

More than half of Iceland's population lives in Reykjavik (or nearby), in one of the world's smallest capital cities -- some 190,000 people. Cruise ships are increasingly paying calls on Reykjavik from late May to early October, especially during the summer months, when the daylight literally lasts 'round the clock. Visitors and residents alike seem to stay awake, golfing, strolling the compact town's picturesque streets, drinking Gull beer at sidewalk cafes and cycling along the seafront promenade.

Many believe that Reykjavik's character is more defined in winter, when daunting weather and 20-hour nights are defied by rollicking pubs and a sense of humor. But, locals laugh at the climate, whether calm or tempestuous. They keep warm in the iconic handsome sweaters for which Iceland is well known; the long hours indoors and out inspire artisans, evidenced by many shops that display lovely local art and clothing.

This is a city that has learned to make the best of things. The Iceland landscape is bare and covered with volcanic rock. With no trees for building houses, 18th-century settlers used driftwood that floated in from the sea, covering the wood in sheets of corrugated tin and painting walls and roofs in vivid colors to brighten the scene. The rock that abounds was turned into material for a fine stone Parliament building, erected in 1881. Citizens have planted and nurtured welcome oases of green. The geothermal springs that bubble underground have been put to work to provide hot water for residents.

Reykjavik has experienced much advancement in the past few years. Progress is plain to see in the sleek, contemporary buildings that are changing the cityscape. Several worthwhile museums salute local history and art, and whimsical street murals dot the city center. With fishing still a dominant occupation, restaurants serve up delectable seafood, and gourmet dining of all kinds is plentiful and popular.

But, if you ask natives for their favorite eating place, the answer most often will be a simple hot dog stand near the harbor.

Reykjavik is a safe city, compact and easy to navigate on foot. As charming as it is, no visit to Iceland is complete without getting out into the vast interior, which lies at the city's doorstep. Seriously, how can you not love a place where sheep have the right of way?

Cruise lines often assign ships to overnight in Reykjavik, offering passengers more than the typical eight-hour port experience, but my greatest regret is that visitors don't have even more time to explore this charming land, where the balance of urban sophistication and nature at its most rugged is unique.

If you regard cruise travel as a chance to sample places you might want to return to later for longer stays, I can't think of a better recommendation than Reykjavik.

Hanging Around

Passengers on those ships small enough to dock in the Old Harbour can walk to most sights. If walking is a challenge, and you don't want to take a tour, double-decker "hop-on, hop-off" buses are also available.

The cruise terminal outside the city center offers little to see or do, but cruise lines typically offer a free shuttle service to and from town (a 10-minute ride). Also, the new Cruise Liner Visitor Centre, which is small but very useful, offers currency exchange, VAT tax-free refunds, computers and internet access for a fee, local and long-distance phone service, car rentals, a tour-booking service and a nice array of duty-free souvenir gifts.

Don't Miss

The Old Town: A couple of hours on foot in the old part of the city allows you to experience its unique spirit, the busy harbor, colorful houses, whimsical murals and sculptures, and interesting architecture, old and new. Start at the main tourist office on Reykjavik's oldest street at Adalstraeti 2, where you can pick up free printed walking guides. The points of interest are easy to find, roughly between the Old Harbour and the town pond (Tjornin on the map).

Along Tryggvagata, the street beside the harbor, at Posthusstraeti, an enormous mosaic depicts the city's maritime life. Keep strolling to see plaques with photos of old sailing ships, one of the old steam locomotives used to build a harbor railroad and the ultramodern concert hall rising above the harbor. Head south toward the pond on almost any street, and you'll be in the oldest part of town, passing brightly colored buildings with tin roofs. You never know where you'll encounter an intriguing small gallery, a humorous sculpture or mural. Around the pond are the modernistic City Hall on stilts and the 1881 classic stone Parliament.

If your schedule allows, you can take advantage of the guided, 90-minute walking tours sponsored by Goecco Outdoor Adventures, with guaranteed departures from May 15 to September 15 at 1 p.m. daily, departing from the Elding Whale Watching stand, located on the Old Harbour. Another free walking tour option departs twice a day from Laekjartorg Square at noon and 2 p.m. Led by university students, the one-hour tour visits the Althing Parliament, Hallgrimskirkja Church, Harpa concert hall and more. In both cases, all it will cost you is a tip for the guide.

Hallgrimskirkja Church: Not everyone admires the odd stair-step architecture, but there's no missing this unusual church, named after Icelandic poet Hallgrimur Petursson. Iceland's largest church, seating more than 1,000, sits at the top of a hill at the end of the shopping street Skolavordustigur. Take the elevator to the tower, which literally towers over the town, for great city views. The concrete form was designed by former state architect Gudjon Samuelsson and was supposedly inspired by volcanic basalt rock formations. On the grounds is a statue of Norwegian-born Leif Ericson, the Viking said to have discovered America 500 years before Columbus. It was a gift from the United States in 1930 on the 1,000th anniversary of the world's oldest Parliament, Iceland's Althing. On some days during the summer months, you may be able to catch a concert at Hallgrimskirkja (usually at noon). (Hallgrimstorg 1; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. October through May and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. June to September. Sunday service takes place at 11 a.m.)

Reykjavik Art Museum: If art is your pleasure, head to the Reykjavik Art Museum, but there's a catch: The museum is divided into three different locations. The most convenient is Hafnarhus (Tryggvagata 17; +354-411-6400; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.), the contemporary art museum, housed in a former warehouse across the street from the Old Harbour. A special gallery there is devoted to the large, comic book-style paintings donated by the Iceland-born artist Erro. (Hafnarhus is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, with extended hours until 8 p.m. on Thursdays.) The other two sites are short cab rides from the cruise dock or town center. Kjarvalsstadir (in Miklatun Park) is the oldest and largest, housing paintings and sculpture by well-established artists. (Flokagata 24; +354-411-6420; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.) TheAsmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum and Park resides in a striking, contemporary, domed building and is named for the sculptor who designed the edifice and whose work is featured inside. (Sigtun; +354-411-6430; May 1 to September 30, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. There's a fee, but you can walk around the sculpture garden for free.)

Harpa Concert Hall: Located on the waterfront, this striking building, made of colored glass, opened in 2011 and is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and Icelandic Opera. It is designed to look like a glacier and at night it is lit up like the Northern Lights. It hosts a variety of concerts, international conferences, trade shows and more. Two restaurants are onsite, as are two shops, one of which features a selection of Icelandic music. There are guided 45-minute tours four times a day for a fee. (Austurbakki 2; +354-528-5000; open daily from 8 a.m. to midnight.)

Reykjavik 871+/-2 Settlement Museum: This underground museum was inspired by the discovery in 2001 of the remains of a Viking-age longhouse. The museum uses stunning interactive displays, models and artifacts to bring the story of the city's earliest settlers to life. Tours can be scheduled with English-language guides. (Adalstraeti 16; +354-411-6370; open daily at 9 a.m. or 10 a.m., depending on the season, and closes at 5 p.m.)

Shopping: Laugavegur and intersecting Skolavordustigur, the main shopping streets, are well worth strolling even if you don't plan on buying anything. The shops display not only the traditional Nordic sweaters but also the modern design that is an increasing influence in Reykjavik. As you browse, don't forget to look toward the water at cross streets for striking views and murals in unexpected places.

Iceland's Golden Circle: These tours offer a chance to explore the island's raw and rugged interior. The trio of sites includes the Strokkur geyser, where jets spout anywhere from 60 to 100 feet; the mystically beautiful Gullfoss (or Golden) falls, Europe's largest waterfall, tumbling into a glacial river with a 105-foot double cascade; and Thingvellir, a scenic national park that marks where Europe's first Parliament, the Althing, was formed in 930 AD. Your best bet is to book a tour, whether through your cruise line or via an independent company like Tours By Locals. One of the best ways to tour the interior is in an off-road vehicle that crosses unbridged rivers to get to the more remote locations.

The Blue Lagoon: Located about 40 minutes from downtown, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland's most popular destinations. Steaming, mineral-rich hot water from far beneath the earth forms this spectacular man-made lagoon, amid a rugged lava landscape. A health spa also offers mudpacks and massages. The lagoon's geothermal water is believed to be beneficial for everything from skin problems to arthritis. Keep in mind that, while the Blue Lagoon is well worth a visit, you probably won't have time to enjoy the hot waters and explore the city of Reykjavik. (Grindavik 240; +354-420-8800; open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. June, July and August and from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. September through May.)

Thermal Pools: Reykjavik is famous for its steamy geothermal swimming pools, fed by underground springs. The biggest and best-known is the Laugardalslaug with both indoor and outdoor pools, plus "hot pots" and a thermal steam bath for those who really like it hot. Take a cab or the #14 bus. The pool is part of Laugardalur, the city's largest park, where you can easily spend a rewarding day. The park includes botanic gardens -- showing off local plant life and great displays of seasonal flowers -- as well as the city zoo. Editor's Note: In order to keep the pools clean, all visitors to any of Reykjavik's thermal pools must wash thoroughly with soap (and without a swimsuit) before getting in. (Sundlaugavegur 30a; +354-411-5100; Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.)

Arbaer Open-Air Museum: Operated by Reykjavik City Museum, Arbaer Open-Air Folk Museum is a period farm turned into an open-air museum with more than 20 buildings forming a town square, a village and a farm. Most of the buildings have been relocated from central Reykjavik. Craftspeople demonstrate traditional farm-life crafts and chores. Although it's located in a suburb of Reykjavik, the museum is easily accessible. Take bus #19 from Hlemmer, the main bus station on Laugavegur, and ask to get off at Strengur, a quick walk from the museum. (Kistuhylur, 110 Reykjavik; +354-411 6300; Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. June, July and August. September through May, the museum opens at 1 p.m. for guided tours only.)

Puffin Tours: Boat tours take visitors past Puffin Island, where thousands of these adorable birds are found in mating season. Puffin Express has tours to the islands of Akurey and Lundey, from May 1 to August 20, using small boats that bring you close to shore. Check kisoks at the Old Harbour for details.

Getting Around

On Foot: Most of Reykjavik's major attractions are within a 15-minute walk of the town center.

By Taxi: Cabs are readily available at the dock and in town at the square in front of the main tourist office. Most cabs also accept credit cards.

By Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus: The red double-decker buses originate at the Harpa concert hall. There's a narrated one-hour tour with 15 stops where passengers can hop on or off at their leisure. Tickets are good for 24 hours. (Stop No. 14 is the Cruise Liner Visitor Centre so it's an easy and efficient way to see the major sights).

By Bus: Public buses require exact fare; drivers don't offer change. A one-day pass can be purchased at 10-11 convenience stores.

Lunching

Reykjavik is known as a foodie destination -- and rightly so. From gourmet food to simple meals, the city has something for every taste and budget. Seafood and smoked lamb are the stars of Icelandic menus. Fish is off-the-boat fresh. Cod is the most popular choice, though haddock, Arctic char, halibut, salmon and monkfish are also common. Locally raised lamb has been allowed to range freely and feed on grasses, herbs and bushes that have never known chemicals, giving the meat a distinctive flavor, which slightly resembles that of wild game. Don't be surprised to see whale, puffin and even horse on the menu. Other Icelandic traditions include skyr, which tastes like sweetened yogurt, and a delicious rye bread called rugbraud or hverabraud. Note: Even though your bill may include a space for tipping, it is not customary in Iceland to do so as service is already included.

Matur og Drykkur: This kitschy restaurant in the Saga Museum in the Old Harbour district has reimagined traditional Icelandic cuisine with a modern twist that features the freshest fish, the leanest lamb and aromatic herbs. There's a terrific Icelandic sampler that includes dried double smoked lamb; fish chips with sweet whey butter and seaweed; salted cod croquettes; and sheep's dung smoked arctic char. Other favorites are the halibut soup with mussels, apples and dried fruit and the hot dog "with everything" and lovage potato salad. Lunch reservations are recommended. (Grandagarour 2; +354-571-8877; 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 to 10:30 p.m., daily.)

Vegamot: One of the city's hottest nighttime venues is a perfect stop for an affordable lunch. Vegamot, conveniently set on a little street between Laugavegur and Skolavordustigur (the two main shopping streets), is a buzzing bar and club at night. But, it's also a great stop by day, when you'll find salads, sandwiches and gourmet pizzas, as well as fresh fish and tapas. On sunny days, the outside garden is packed. (Vegamotastig 4; +354-511-3040; open weekdays and Saturdays at 11 a.m. and at noon on Sundays and keeps kicking through the wee hours.)

Hot dogs: Icelanders are crazy about hot dogs, and the place to find out why is a simple stand near the harbor called Baejarins Beztu Pylsur (literally means "best hot dog in town," and we have to say: it's mighty fine), a standby since 1939. Look for it on Tryggvagata, just east of Posthusstraeti. (Head toward the Radisson Blu 1919 Hotel in the old town, and look for a line of people.) To sample a hot dog the way the natives like it, order it with everything -- sweet mustard, fried onion and a remoulade sauce.

Coocoo's Nest: Green eggs and ham? A mimosa made with beet, orange or apple juice? Vegan menu options? Talk about menu choices to please just about anyone. This handsome family-owned restaurant is located in what was once a fisherman's storage shed, just across the street from the Reykjavik Maritime Museum. A deli-style menu with salads, soups and sandwiches is available Tuesday through Thursday with a robust brunch on offer Friday, Saturday and Sunday. There is limited outdoor seating. (Grandagarour 23; +354-552 5454; Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Mondays.)

Port 4 - Isajordur

Isafjordur, Iceland

Arrival: 8 am (tender)

Departure: 6 pm

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

 Sightseeing

The port of Isafjordur is the largest of all harbours located in the Westfjords region of Iceland.  Fishing has traditionally been – and remains – the area’s main source of income.

Isafjordur is Iceland’s third busiest Cruise Port for cruise ships. Calling vessels make a dramatic 80 km journey up the Isafjardardjup Bay which shelters a number of smaller fjords.  Isafjordur town is located in one of these, the Skutulsfjordur.

Flanked on three sides by towering mountains, Isafjordur is a near perfect natural harbour.

Close to the cruise quays is the Maritime Museum, located in one of the oldest houses in Isafjordur, which traces the life and history of the settlement with a fascinating array of fishing gear and variety of boats. The oldest group of houses in Iceland are also here, merchant properties dating back to the 18^th century.

Shopping and Food

The shops in Iceland ore of international standard, and carry a wide variety of merchandise.  Local specialities are wollen knitwear (for example sweaters, cardigans, hats and mittens), handmade ceramics, glassware and silver jewellery.  Also available is a great variety of high-quality seafood.

Port 3 - Akureyri

Akureyri, Iceland

Arrival: 10 am

Departure: 7 pm

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

Overview

The second-largest city in Iceland (yet still small, with fewer than 18,000 residents), Akureyri has become a regular stop for cruise ships visiting the island on a Norwegian fjords cruise, as well as those on transatlantic repositionings.

Located on Iceland's longest fjord, Eyjafjordur, Akureyri has been settled since Vikings arrived in the 9th century and has long been dominant in fishing, thanks to an ice-free port. Although cruise ships only visit during the summer, the town has a healthy winter tourism scene, with several ski resorts close by. Thus, you'll find many outdoor clothing stores, as well as restaurants, cafes and bars, in the city's downtown.

A call in Akureyri provides cruisers with a cute town to explore and makes a perfect gateway to northern Iceland's geothermal phenomena. Lake Myvatn, home to bubbling hotpots, thermal baths, craters and lava formations, is less than two hours away. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, consider a flightseeing trip over this geothermal wonderland; if an eruption is going on, you might even see lava spurting into the air (as tourists did in fall 2014, when a fissure developed in nearby Holuhraun).

Akureyri is also a good place to hire an independent tour operator for outdoor pursuits, such as whale watching, horseback riding, hiking and Jeep adventures. Or you can rent a car and explore the country's Ring Road. Make sure you wear layers and bring a raincoat; Iceland's weather is notoriously fickle even though Akureyri generally has warmer temperatures than other parts of the island.

Hanging Around

The dock area has a visitor's center with a souvenir shop, free Wi-Fi and restrooms. The terminal is an easy, 10-minute walk from downtown Akureyri, and buses, taxis and tours are able to pick up passengers right outside the dock.

Don't Miss

Church of Akureyi: Perched on a hill overlooking the harbor, the Church of Akureyri (official name: Akureyrarkirkja) is an Art Deco stunner of a building. Designed by Icelandic state architect Gudjon Samuelsson (who also built Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik), the Lutheran church has a 3,200-pipe organ and a ship suspended from the ceiling that hearkens to the Nordic tradition of asking protection for loved ones at sea. (Free admission; open daily, hours vary)

Godafoss: Iceland is a waterfall-lover's dream, and one of its most historically significant, Godafoss, is only about a half hour from Akureyri. Shaped in a classical horseshoe spanning nearly 100 feet, the falls are 39 feet high and can be viewed from lava rocks nearby. The name, translated as Waterfall of the Gods, comes from the year 1000, when Iceland converted from paganism to Christianity. Legend has it that the lawspeaker (the Vikings' elected leader of Parliament) at the time, a pagan priest named Thorgeir Thorkelsson, threw his idols into the waterfall after he made the decision to convert.

Lake Myvatn: The outdoor activities around Lake Myvatn, about 60 miles from Akureyri, could easily fill a day. Highlights include the sulfur-smelling mud pots at Hverir, easy walking trails through craggy lava formations at the folkloric troll haven Dimmuborgir, a hike up the Hverfjall crater for the hardy, or a visit to steaming lava near Krafla caldera, a volcano that has erupted 29 times in recorded history. Finish your visit with a soak at the Myvatn Nature Baths, geothermal springs with a soaking lagoon and several steam rooms. (Open 9 a.m. to midnight June 1 to August 31 and noon to 10 p.m. September 1 to May 31; $30 per person, June 1 to August 31; $26 per person in the offseason; swimsuits, towels and bathrobes can be rented; massage services available with advance reservation)

Game of Thrones Tours: The desolate landscape around Lake Myvatn has drawn filmmakers over the years; recent flicks include the Russell Crowe movie "Noah" and the Tom Cruise action picture "Oblivion." But it's the critically acclaimed and immensely popular HBO series "Game of Thrones" that draws tourists. Lake Myvatn and its environs serve as the stand-in for the wintery "beyond the wall" scenes in Season 2. Naturally, tour operators have taken advantage of this, and you'll find daylong Game of Thrones tours leaving from Akureyri. Your ticket usually includes roundtrip transportation to the remote locations by a super Jeep (jacked up to traverse rough terrain) and often a stop at the Myvatn Nature Baths.

Whale-watching: The North Atlantic is a haven for a multitude of whale species, and seeking out bottlenose, humpback or minke whales is a popular excursion. You can either take a tour directly from Akureyri or drive yourself to Husavik, considered the "whale watching capital of Europe" (about 90 minutes away). If you go, save time for the excellent Husavik Whale Museum. (Open 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily June to August and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. May and September)

Horseback Riding: As you traverse the countryside, you'll see Icelandic horses, notably smaller than most breeds, grazing by the side of the road. But don't mistake their size for a lack of power. In addition to the regular gaits all horses know, Icelandic horses are born with their own speedy version known as the toit, making a horseback riding expedition a must for equine-lovers. Numerous operators run excursions in the Akureyri area; Skjaldarvik, a few miles north of town, has 90-minute rides daily at 10 a.m., 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. (with free access to a hot tub after your excursion).

Flightseeing: If you have the budget, Akureyri is a good base for flightseeing over some of Iceland's most unusual terrain. In fall 2014, companies such as Iceland Travel, Saga Tours and Nonni Travel were offering flights over the raging Holuhraun lava field from the Bardabunga volcano. Even if that cools down, you'll be able to see dramatic landscape such as the Askja caldera, Lake Myvatn and Vatnajokull, the monster glacier that makes up 10 percent of the island. Another option is a flight to Grimsey Island, which is Iceland's only point north of the Arctic Circle. You can view puffins and icebergs, and you'll receive a certificate proving northern exposure.

Motorcycle Museum of Iceland: If the rain is too much for you, Akureyri offers a host of museums and attractions, most within walking distance of the port. If you spend your weekends riding the road, you'll appreciate the Motorcycle Museum of Iceland, which dives into the history of hogs on the island, in a building that was especially designed to house the bikes (Krokeyri 2; open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily June 1 to August 31)

Botanical Garden: The Botanical Garden is the northernmost park of its kind in the world, with 430 native plants and 6,600 other species (Eyrarlandsholt; open8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from June 1 to September 30)

Getting Around

On Foot: Akureyri is extremely walkable. The town center is less than 10 minutes from the cruise port.

By Taxi: Taxis, located on the street across from the cruise terminal parking lot, are available for two- to six-hour private tours. Prices are displayed on a street placard and include gratuity; Iceland is not a tipping culture.

By Car: The Lake Myvatn area has many sites you can visit on your own if you have a car. Europcar has a rental office within the cruise terminal, and familiar brands such as Dollar, Thrifty, Budget and Avis are a short walk away (as well as the Icelandic company Icelandcar). Reservations are recommended in the prime summer months (June, July and August).

Lunching

Prepare yourself for sticker shock if you eat off the ship. Iceland's food is notoriously expensive. Seafood and lamb are staples in this agricultural land surrounded by sea, and the soups made from these ingredients make a particularly satisfying (and warming) lunch, especially when served with hunks of delicious brown bread. If you're an adventurous eater, you'll want to seek out hakari, fermented (rotten) shark that's often served with brennivin, a clear spirit. If the ammonia taste and smell of the shark don't make you gag, the strong licorice flavor of the drink will.

Alaska Mini Mart: For a quick snack, the Alaska Mini Mart has smoothies and interesting paninis (chicken, mango and peanut sauce), as well as sodas and convenience store staples, at wallet-friendly prices. (Radhustorg 3; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)

Simstooin Cafe: This spot is located on Hafnarstaeti, Akureyri's main pedestrian shopping street. With a fish of the day and a raw food of the day, it's a good choice for those with food allergies. Plus, it has free Wi-Fi. (Hafnarstraeti 102; open 9a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)

Blaa Kannan: Also on Hafnarstaeti, cozy Blaa Kannan offers delicious pastries and coffee, as well as fresh-baked bread and hearty soups for lunch. (Hafnarstaeti 96; open 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)

Rub 23: Across the street from the church, Rub 23 has a trendy mix of seafood and sushi (including minke whale, a somewhat controversial dish). The restaurant is tops on TripAdvisor and features an intriguing "sushi pizza" made with Arctic char. (Kaupvangsstraeti 6; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays)

Strikid: If you're looking for a restaurant with a view, Strikid offers heartier meals than the cafes on Hafnarstaeti. Icelandic specialties include langoustines, pan-fried cod, slow-cooked lamb shank and -- occasionally -- fermented shark. (Skipagata 14; open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)