Port 5 - Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland

Arrival: 8 am

Departure: 4 pm (next day)

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

Overview

Europe's northernmost and westernmost capital is a delightful destination, part old Norse, part modern city, with a quirky personality of its own. The puffin, troll and elf souvenirs found in gift stores are apt mascots for a city with a decidedly playful streak.

More than half of Iceland's population lives in Reykjavik (or nearby), in one of the world's smallest capital cities -- some 190,000 people. Cruise ships are increasingly paying calls on Reykjavik from late May to early October, especially during the summer months, when the daylight literally lasts 'round the clock. Visitors and residents alike seem to stay awake, golfing, strolling the compact town's picturesque streets, drinking Gull beer at sidewalk cafes and cycling along the seafront promenade.

Many believe that Reykjavik's character is more defined in winter, when daunting weather and 20-hour nights are defied by rollicking pubs and a sense of humor. But, locals laugh at the climate, whether calm or tempestuous. They keep warm in the iconic handsome sweaters for which Iceland is well known; the long hours indoors and out inspire artisans, evidenced by many shops that display lovely local art and clothing.

This is a city that has learned to make the best of things. The Iceland landscape is bare and covered with volcanic rock. With no trees for building houses, 18th-century settlers used driftwood that floated in from the sea, covering the wood in sheets of corrugated tin and painting walls and roofs in vivid colors to brighten the scene. The rock that abounds was turned into material for a fine stone Parliament building, erected in 1881. Citizens have planted and nurtured welcome oases of green. The geothermal springs that bubble underground have been put to work to provide hot water for residents.

Reykjavik has experienced much advancement in the past few years. Progress is plain to see in the sleek, contemporary buildings that are changing the cityscape. Several worthwhile museums salute local history and art, and whimsical street murals dot the city center. With fishing still a dominant occupation, restaurants serve up delectable seafood, and gourmet dining of all kinds is plentiful and popular.

But, if you ask natives for their favorite eating place, the answer most often will be a simple hot dog stand near the harbor.

Reykjavik is a safe city, compact and easy to navigate on foot. As charming as it is, no visit to Iceland is complete without getting out into the vast interior, which lies at the city's doorstep. Seriously, how can you not love a place where sheep have the right of way?

Cruise lines often assign ships to overnight in Reykjavik, offering passengers more than the typical eight-hour port experience, but my greatest regret is that visitors don't have even more time to explore this charming land, where the balance of urban sophistication and nature at its most rugged is unique.

If you regard cruise travel as a chance to sample places you might want to return to later for longer stays, I can't think of a better recommendation than Reykjavik.

Hanging Around

Passengers on those ships small enough to dock in the Old Harbour can walk to most sights. If walking is a challenge, and you don't want to take a tour, double-decker "hop-on, hop-off" buses are also available.

The cruise terminal outside the city center offers little to see or do, but cruise lines typically offer a free shuttle service to and from town (a 10-minute ride). Also, the new Cruise Liner Visitor Centre, which is small but very useful, offers currency exchange, VAT tax-free refunds, computers and internet access for a fee, local and long-distance phone service, car rentals, a tour-booking service and a nice array of duty-free souvenir gifts.

Don't Miss

The Old Town: A couple of hours on foot in the old part of the city allows you to experience its unique spirit, the busy harbor, colorful houses, whimsical murals and sculptures, and interesting architecture, old and new. Start at the main tourist office on Reykjavik's oldest street at Adalstraeti 2, where you can pick up free printed walking guides. The points of interest are easy to find, roughly between the Old Harbour and the town pond (Tjornin on the map).

Along Tryggvagata, the street beside the harbor, at Posthusstraeti, an enormous mosaic depicts the city's maritime life. Keep strolling to see plaques with photos of old sailing ships, one of the old steam locomotives used to build a harbor railroad and the ultramodern concert hall rising above the harbor. Head south toward the pond on almost any street, and you'll be in the oldest part of town, passing brightly colored buildings with tin roofs. You never know where you'll encounter an intriguing small gallery, a humorous sculpture or mural. Around the pond are the modernistic City Hall on stilts and the 1881 classic stone Parliament.

If your schedule allows, you can take advantage of the guided, 90-minute walking tours sponsored by Goecco Outdoor Adventures, with guaranteed departures from May 15 to September 15 at 1 p.m. daily, departing from the Elding Whale Watching stand, located on the Old Harbour. Another free walking tour option departs twice a day from Laekjartorg Square at noon and 2 p.m. Led by university students, the one-hour tour visits the Althing Parliament, Hallgrimskirkja Church, Harpa concert hall and more. In both cases, all it will cost you is a tip for the guide.

Hallgrimskirkja Church: Not everyone admires the odd stair-step architecture, but there's no missing this unusual church, named after Icelandic poet Hallgrimur Petursson. Iceland's largest church, seating more than 1,000, sits at the top of a hill at the end of the shopping street Skolavordustigur. Take the elevator to the tower, which literally towers over the town, for great city views. The concrete form was designed by former state architect Gudjon Samuelsson and was supposedly inspired by volcanic basalt rock formations. On the grounds is a statue of Norwegian-born Leif Ericson, the Viking said to have discovered America 500 years before Columbus. It was a gift from the United States in 1930 on the 1,000th anniversary of the world's oldest Parliament, Iceland's Althing. On some days during the summer months, you may be able to catch a concert at Hallgrimskirkja (usually at noon). (Hallgrimstorg 1; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. October through May and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. June to September. Sunday service takes place at 11 a.m.)

Reykjavik Art Museum: If art is your pleasure, head to the Reykjavik Art Museum, but there's a catch: The museum is divided into three different locations. The most convenient is Hafnarhus (Tryggvagata 17; +354-411-6400; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.), the contemporary art museum, housed in a former warehouse across the street from the Old Harbour. A special gallery there is devoted to the large, comic book-style paintings donated by the Iceland-born artist Erro. (Hafnarhus is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, with extended hours until 8 p.m. on Thursdays.) The other two sites are short cab rides from the cruise dock or town center. Kjarvalsstadir (in Miklatun Park) is the oldest and largest, housing paintings and sculpture by well-established artists. (Flokagata 24; +354-411-6420; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.) TheAsmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum and Park resides in a striking, contemporary, domed building and is named for the sculptor who designed the edifice and whose work is featured inside. (Sigtun; +354-411-6430; May 1 to September 30, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. There's a fee, but you can walk around the sculpture garden for free.)

Harpa Concert Hall: Located on the waterfront, this striking building, made of colored glass, opened in 2011 and is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and Icelandic Opera. It is designed to look like a glacier and at night it is lit up like the Northern Lights. It hosts a variety of concerts, international conferences, trade shows and more. Two restaurants are onsite, as are two shops, one of which features a selection of Icelandic music. There are guided 45-minute tours four times a day for a fee. (Austurbakki 2; +354-528-5000; open daily from 8 a.m. to midnight.)

Reykjavik 871+/-2 Settlement Museum: This underground museum was inspired by the discovery in 2001 of the remains of a Viking-age longhouse. The museum uses stunning interactive displays, models and artifacts to bring the story of the city's earliest settlers to life. Tours can be scheduled with English-language guides. (Adalstraeti 16; +354-411-6370; open daily at 9 a.m. or 10 a.m., depending on the season, and closes at 5 p.m.)

Shopping: Laugavegur and intersecting Skolavordustigur, the main shopping streets, are well worth strolling even if you don't plan on buying anything. The shops display not only the traditional Nordic sweaters but also the modern design that is an increasing influence in Reykjavik. As you browse, don't forget to look toward the water at cross streets for striking views and murals in unexpected places.

Iceland's Golden Circle: These tours offer a chance to explore the island's raw and rugged interior. The trio of sites includes the Strokkur geyser, where jets spout anywhere from 60 to 100 feet; the mystically beautiful Gullfoss (or Golden) falls, Europe's largest waterfall, tumbling into a glacial river with a 105-foot double cascade; and Thingvellir, a scenic national park that marks where Europe's first Parliament, the Althing, was formed in 930 AD. Your best bet is to book a tour, whether through your cruise line or via an independent company like Tours By Locals. One of the best ways to tour the interior is in an off-road vehicle that crosses unbridged rivers to get to the more remote locations.

The Blue Lagoon: Located about 40 minutes from downtown, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland's most popular destinations. Steaming, mineral-rich hot water from far beneath the earth forms this spectacular man-made lagoon, amid a rugged lava landscape. A health spa also offers mudpacks and massages. The lagoon's geothermal water is believed to be beneficial for everything from skin problems to arthritis. Keep in mind that, while the Blue Lagoon is well worth a visit, you probably won't have time to enjoy the hot waters and explore the city of Reykjavik. (Grindavik 240; +354-420-8800; open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. June, July and August and from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. September through May.)

Thermal Pools: Reykjavik is famous for its steamy geothermal swimming pools, fed by underground springs. The biggest and best-known is the Laugardalslaug with both indoor and outdoor pools, plus "hot pots" and a thermal steam bath for those who really like it hot. Take a cab or the #14 bus. The pool is part of Laugardalur, the city's largest park, where you can easily spend a rewarding day. The park includes botanic gardens -- showing off local plant life and great displays of seasonal flowers -- as well as the city zoo. Editor's Note: In order to keep the pools clean, all visitors to any of Reykjavik's thermal pools must wash thoroughly with soap (and without a swimsuit) before getting in. (Sundlaugavegur 30a; +354-411-5100; Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.)

Arbaer Open-Air Museum: Operated by Reykjavik City Museum, Arbaer Open-Air Folk Museum is a period farm turned into an open-air museum with more than 20 buildings forming a town square, a village and a farm. Most of the buildings have been relocated from central Reykjavik. Craftspeople demonstrate traditional farm-life crafts and chores. Although it's located in a suburb of Reykjavik, the museum is easily accessible. Take bus #19 from Hlemmer, the main bus station on Laugavegur, and ask to get off at Strengur, a quick walk from the museum. (Kistuhylur, 110 Reykjavik; +354-411 6300; Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. June, July and August. September through May, the museum opens at 1 p.m. for guided tours only.)

Puffin Tours: Boat tours take visitors past Puffin Island, where thousands of these adorable birds are found in mating season. Puffin Express has tours to the islands of Akurey and Lundey, from May 1 to August 20, using small boats that bring you close to shore. Check kisoks at the Old Harbour for details.

Getting Around

On Foot: Most of Reykjavik's major attractions are within a 15-minute walk of the town center.

By Taxi: Cabs are readily available at the dock and in town at the square in front of the main tourist office. Most cabs also accept credit cards.

By Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus: The red double-decker buses originate at the Harpa concert hall. There's a narrated one-hour tour with 15 stops where passengers can hop on or off at their leisure. Tickets are good for 24 hours. (Stop No. 14 is the Cruise Liner Visitor Centre so it's an easy and efficient way to see the major sights).

By Bus: Public buses require exact fare; drivers don't offer change. A one-day pass can be purchased at 10-11 convenience stores.

Lunching

Reykjavik is known as a foodie destination -- and rightly so. From gourmet food to simple meals, the city has something for every taste and budget. Seafood and smoked lamb are the stars of Icelandic menus. Fish is off-the-boat fresh. Cod is the most popular choice, though haddock, Arctic char, halibut, salmon and monkfish are also common. Locally raised lamb has been allowed to range freely and feed on grasses, herbs and bushes that have never known chemicals, giving the meat a distinctive flavor, which slightly resembles that of wild game. Don't be surprised to see whale, puffin and even horse on the menu. Other Icelandic traditions include skyr, which tastes like sweetened yogurt, and a delicious rye bread called rugbraud or hverabraud. Note: Even though your bill may include a space for tipping, it is not customary in Iceland to do so as service is already included.

Matur og Drykkur: This kitschy restaurant in the Saga Museum in the Old Harbour district has reimagined traditional Icelandic cuisine with a modern twist that features the freshest fish, the leanest lamb and aromatic herbs. There's a terrific Icelandic sampler that includes dried double smoked lamb; fish chips with sweet whey butter and seaweed; salted cod croquettes; and sheep's dung smoked arctic char. Other favorites are the halibut soup with mussels, apples and dried fruit and the hot dog "with everything" and lovage potato salad. Lunch reservations are recommended. (Grandagarour 2; +354-571-8877; 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 to 10:30 p.m., daily.)

Vegamot: One of the city's hottest nighttime venues is a perfect stop for an affordable lunch. Vegamot, conveniently set on a little street between Laugavegur and Skolavordustigur (the two main shopping streets), is a buzzing bar and club at night. But, it's also a great stop by day, when you'll find salads, sandwiches and gourmet pizzas, as well as fresh fish and tapas. On sunny days, the outside garden is packed. (Vegamotastig 4; +354-511-3040; open weekdays and Saturdays at 11 a.m. and at noon on Sundays and keeps kicking through the wee hours.)

Hot dogs: Icelanders are crazy about hot dogs, and the place to find out why is a simple stand near the harbor called Baejarins Beztu Pylsur (literally means "best hot dog in town," and we have to say: it's mighty fine), a standby since 1939. Look for it on Tryggvagata, just east of Posthusstraeti. (Head toward the Radisson Blu 1919 Hotel in the old town, and look for a line of people.) To sample a hot dog the way the natives like it, order it with everything -- sweet mustard, fried onion and a remoulade sauce.

Coocoo's Nest: Green eggs and ham? A mimosa made with beet, orange or apple juice? Vegan menu options? Talk about menu choices to please just about anyone. This handsome family-owned restaurant is located in what was once a fisherman's storage shed, just across the street from the Reykjavik Maritime Museum. A deli-style menu with salads, soups and sandwiches is available Tuesday through Thursday with a robust brunch on offer Friday, Saturday and Sunday. There is limited outdoor seating. (Grandagarour 23; +354-552 5454; Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Mondays.)

Port 4 - Isajordur

Isafjordur, Iceland

Arrival: 8 am (tender)

Departure: 6 pm

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

 Sightseeing

The port of Isafjordur is the largest of all harbours located in the Westfjords region of Iceland.  Fishing has traditionally been – and remains – the area’s main source of income.

Isafjordur is Iceland’s third busiest Cruise Port for cruise ships. Calling vessels make a dramatic 80 km journey up the Isafjardardjup Bay which shelters a number of smaller fjords.  Isafjordur town is located in one of these, the Skutulsfjordur.

Flanked on three sides by towering mountains, Isafjordur is a near perfect natural harbour.

Close to the cruise quays is the Maritime Museum, located in one of the oldest houses in Isafjordur, which traces the life and history of the settlement with a fascinating array of fishing gear and variety of boats. The oldest group of houses in Iceland are also here, merchant properties dating back to the 18^th century.

Shopping and Food

The shops in Iceland ore of international standard, and carry a wide variety of merchandise.  Local specialities are wollen knitwear (for example sweaters, cardigans, hats and mittens), handmade ceramics, glassware and silver jewellery.  Also available is a great variety of high-quality seafood.

Port 3 - Akureyri

Akureyri, Iceland

Arrival: 10 am

Departure: 7 pm

Currency: Icelandic krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards

Overview

The second-largest city in Iceland (yet still small, with fewer than 18,000 residents), Akureyri has become a regular stop for cruise ships visiting the island on a Norwegian fjords cruise, as well as those on transatlantic repositionings.

Located on Iceland's longest fjord, Eyjafjordur, Akureyri has been settled since Vikings arrived in the 9th century and has long been dominant in fishing, thanks to an ice-free port. Although cruise ships only visit during the summer, the town has a healthy winter tourism scene, with several ski resorts close by. Thus, you'll find many outdoor clothing stores, as well as restaurants, cafes and bars, in the city's downtown.

A call in Akureyri provides cruisers with a cute town to explore and makes a perfect gateway to northern Iceland's geothermal phenomena. Lake Myvatn, home to bubbling hotpots, thermal baths, craters and lava formations, is less than two hours away. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, consider a flightseeing trip over this geothermal wonderland; if an eruption is going on, you might even see lava spurting into the air (as tourists did in fall 2014, when a fissure developed in nearby Holuhraun).

Akureyri is also a good place to hire an independent tour operator for outdoor pursuits, such as whale watching, horseback riding, hiking and Jeep adventures. Or you can rent a car and explore the country's Ring Road. Make sure you wear layers and bring a raincoat; Iceland's weather is notoriously fickle even though Akureyri generally has warmer temperatures than other parts of the island.

Hanging Around

The dock area has a visitor's center with a souvenir shop, free Wi-Fi and restrooms. The terminal is an easy, 10-minute walk from downtown Akureyri, and buses, taxis and tours are able to pick up passengers right outside the dock.

Don't Miss

Church of Akureyi: Perched on a hill overlooking the harbor, the Church of Akureyri (official name: Akureyrarkirkja) is an Art Deco stunner of a building. Designed by Icelandic state architect Gudjon Samuelsson (who also built Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik), the Lutheran church has a 3,200-pipe organ and a ship suspended from the ceiling that hearkens to the Nordic tradition of asking protection for loved ones at sea. (Free admission; open daily, hours vary)

Godafoss: Iceland is a waterfall-lover's dream, and one of its most historically significant, Godafoss, is only about a half hour from Akureyri. Shaped in a classical horseshoe spanning nearly 100 feet, the falls are 39 feet high and can be viewed from lava rocks nearby. The name, translated as Waterfall of the Gods, comes from the year 1000, when Iceland converted from paganism to Christianity. Legend has it that the lawspeaker (the Vikings' elected leader of Parliament) at the time, a pagan priest named Thorgeir Thorkelsson, threw his idols into the waterfall after he made the decision to convert.

Lake Myvatn: The outdoor activities around Lake Myvatn, about 60 miles from Akureyri, could easily fill a day. Highlights include the sulfur-smelling mud pots at Hverir, easy walking trails through craggy lava formations at the folkloric troll haven Dimmuborgir, a hike up the Hverfjall crater for the hardy, or a visit to steaming lava near Krafla caldera, a volcano that has erupted 29 times in recorded history. Finish your visit with a soak at the Myvatn Nature Baths, geothermal springs with a soaking lagoon and several steam rooms. (Open 9 a.m. to midnight June 1 to August 31 and noon to 10 p.m. September 1 to May 31; $30 per person, June 1 to August 31; $26 per person in the offseason; swimsuits, towels and bathrobes can be rented; massage services available with advance reservation)

Game of Thrones Tours: The desolate landscape around Lake Myvatn has drawn filmmakers over the years; recent flicks include the Russell Crowe movie "Noah" and the Tom Cruise action picture "Oblivion." But it's the critically acclaimed and immensely popular HBO series "Game of Thrones" that draws tourists. Lake Myvatn and its environs serve as the stand-in for the wintery "beyond the wall" scenes in Season 2. Naturally, tour operators have taken advantage of this, and you'll find daylong Game of Thrones tours leaving from Akureyri. Your ticket usually includes roundtrip transportation to the remote locations by a super Jeep (jacked up to traverse rough terrain) and often a stop at the Myvatn Nature Baths.

Whale-watching: The North Atlantic is a haven for a multitude of whale species, and seeking out bottlenose, humpback or minke whales is a popular excursion. You can either take a tour directly from Akureyri or drive yourself to Husavik, considered the "whale watching capital of Europe" (about 90 minutes away). If you go, save time for the excellent Husavik Whale Museum. (Open 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily June to August and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. May and September)

Horseback Riding: As you traverse the countryside, you'll see Icelandic horses, notably smaller than most breeds, grazing by the side of the road. But don't mistake their size for a lack of power. In addition to the regular gaits all horses know, Icelandic horses are born with their own speedy version known as the toit, making a horseback riding expedition a must for equine-lovers. Numerous operators run excursions in the Akureyri area; Skjaldarvik, a few miles north of town, has 90-minute rides daily at 10 a.m., 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. (with free access to a hot tub after your excursion).

Flightseeing: If you have the budget, Akureyri is a good base for flightseeing over some of Iceland's most unusual terrain. In fall 2014, companies such as Iceland Travel, Saga Tours and Nonni Travel were offering flights over the raging Holuhraun lava field from the Bardabunga volcano. Even if that cools down, you'll be able to see dramatic landscape such as the Askja caldera, Lake Myvatn and Vatnajokull, the monster glacier that makes up 10 percent of the island. Another option is a flight to Grimsey Island, which is Iceland's only point north of the Arctic Circle. You can view puffins and icebergs, and you'll receive a certificate proving northern exposure.

Motorcycle Museum of Iceland: If the rain is too much for you, Akureyri offers a host of museums and attractions, most within walking distance of the port. If you spend your weekends riding the road, you'll appreciate the Motorcycle Museum of Iceland, which dives into the history of hogs on the island, in a building that was especially designed to house the bikes (Krokeyri 2; open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily June 1 to August 31)

Botanical Garden: The Botanical Garden is the northernmost park of its kind in the world, with 430 native plants and 6,600 other species (Eyrarlandsholt; open8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from June 1 to September 30)

Getting Around

On Foot: Akureyri is extremely walkable. The town center is less than 10 minutes from the cruise port.

By Taxi: Taxis, located on the street across from the cruise terminal parking lot, are available for two- to six-hour private tours. Prices are displayed on a street placard and include gratuity; Iceland is not a tipping culture.

By Car: The Lake Myvatn area has many sites you can visit on your own if you have a car. Europcar has a rental office within the cruise terminal, and familiar brands such as Dollar, Thrifty, Budget and Avis are a short walk away (as well as the Icelandic company Icelandcar). Reservations are recommended in the prime summer months (June, July and August).

Lunching

Prepare yourself for sticker shock if you eat off the ship. Iceland's food is notoriously expensive. Seafood and lamb are staples in this agricultural land surrounded by sea, and the soups made from these ingredients make a particularly satisfying (and warming) lunch, especially when served with hunks of delicious brown bread. If you're an adventurous eater, you'll want to seek out hakari, fermented (rotten) shark that's often served with brennivin, a clear spirit. If the ammonia taste and smell of the shark don't make you gag, the strong licorice flavor of the drink will.

Alaska Mini Mart: For a quick snack, the Alaska Mini Mart has smoothies and interesting paninis (chicken, mango and peanut sauce), as well as sodas and convenience store staples, at wallet-friendly prices. (Radhustorg 3; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)

Simstooin Cafe: This spot is located on Hafnarstaeti, Akureyri's main pedestrian shopping street. With a fish of the day and a raw food of the day, it's a good choice for those with food allergies. Plus, it has free Wi-Fi. (Hafnarstraeti 102; open 9a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)

Blaa Kannan: Also on Hafnarstaeti, cozy Blaa Kannan offers delicious pastries and coffee, as well as fresh-baked bread and hearty soups for lunch. (Hafnarstaeti 96; open 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)

Rub 23: Across the street from the church, Rub 23 has a trendy mix of seafood and sushi (including minke whale, a somewhat controversial dish). The restaurant is tops on TripAdvisor and features an intriguing "sushi pizza" made with Arctic char. (Kaupvangsstraeti 6; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays)

Strikid: If you're looking for a restaurant with a view, Strikid offers heartier meals than the cafes on Hafnarstaeti. Icelandic specialties include langoustines, pan-fried cod, slow-cooked lamb shank and -- occasionally -- fermented shark. (Skipagata 14; open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)

Port 2 - Invergordon

Invergordon, Scotland

Arrival: 8 am

Departure: 3pm

Currency: Pounds, interchangeable with British pounds, (1 CAD = 0.6 £), some shops accept US or Euro

Overview

Although it's the most popular cruise ship port of call in Scotland, Invergordon might look a bit bleak as you pull up to the dock. Its main industry is repairing oil rigs, which are towed into Cromarty Firth, so there's little glamour to the waterfront. But the town's natural deep harbor (carved by glaciers) makes it the ideal cruise portal to the Highlands.

Once ashore, you'll probably head out to see the Loch Ness monster, Culloden Battlefield, the town of Inverness, a castle or perhaps a whisky distillery.

Because most visitors scurry off to the heather-covered Highlands, this town of about 4,000 is less touristy than you might expect, and it owns a homespun charm. When we visited on our Windstar cruise, a handwritten sign greeted us at the little tourism kiosk: "Welcome Wind Surf! 100% guaranteed sighting of Nessie tomorrow!"

Take a short walk into the town center and you'll find impressive murals, overflowing flowerboxes, small shops, cafes, banks -- and friendly people happy to have a wee chat. Don't forgo a shore excursion to hang out there, but if you have an extra hour or so, you can have a pleasant time seeing the murals and poking around High Street.

The town seems thoroughly genuine and blissfully short on jaded tourist glitz. One of the best memories of our cruise was being played off during our sailaway by an 18-member high school drum and bagpipe corps in full Scottish regalia. Their haunting music carried out over the waters as we sailed off through the firth.

Hanging Around

There's no cruise terminal at the pier, but you will find a souvenir shop with a tea room, taxis, tour company signs with prices and phone numbers, and a large placard with a map of the town.

Tourism representatives sometimes come aboard ship to offer information and maps. There's also an information kiosk on the first road you'll reach if you continue straight off the pier toward High Street. It's not staffed full-time but should have someone there when you first come ashore. Either way, there are maps, lots of brochures for attractions all over the Highlands and a signboard with thorough bus and train information.

If you walk left when you hit shore, you'll be headed toward an industrial area; to the immediate right is a nicer area and waterside pathway.

Don't Miss

Loch Ness: You can't visit the Highlands without trying to spot Nessie, the Loch Ness monster, right? Loch Ness is set amid beautiful scenery, and the romantic ruin of Urquhart Castle at loch's edge makes a great viewpoint and photo op. The castle has 1,000 years of history, and the visitor center tells you its story and features a display of medieval artifacts. A five-story tower has the best viewpoint over the 23-mile long loch. There's also a restaurant and a large gift shop -- so even if you don't spot Nessie, you can still buy a much more adorable stuffed version. If you're a Nessie fan, the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition, in nearby Drumnadrochit, is worth a visit, too. Urquhart Castle is located about 17 miles south of Inverness, off of the A82 road. (+44 01456 450 551; open 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer, to 5 p.m. in fall and to 4:40 p.m. in winter)

Cawdor Castle: Cawdor Castle is far from a ruin. In fact, the Cawdor family still lives there, and the stately home has evolved over 600 years. You can tour rooms with lavish furnishings and see the thorn tree that legend says the castle was built around. The thane of Cawdor let a donkey roam around and located his new castle where the donkey lay down for the night, right by the thorn tree! The castle also has a famous connection to the Shakespeare play "Macbeth." (Located 15 miles from Inverness and five miles from Nairn, off of the B9090 road; +44 01667 404401; open 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. May to early October)

Dunrobin Castle: While we weren't overly impressed with the interior of Dunrobin Castle, the garden and the exterior are another story. Reminiscent of a French chateau, the castle's turrets and stonework were designed by Charles Barry, who also designed the British Parliament. Below the castle, formal gardens carpet the landscape, and you get a great bird's-eye view from the castle terrace. If you're willing to brave an imposing set of steps down to the garden, you can be treated to our favorite part of the visit, a birds-of-prey demonstration. The fascinating resident falconer provides a great commentary as hawks, falcons and owls swoop low over the audience and pounce on lures. Shows are at 11:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. Monday to Saturday on the far side of the garden and last just over half an hour. (Located about 30 miles northeast of Invergordon, off the A9; +44 01408 633177; open 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday and noon to 4:30 p.m. on Sunday in April, May, September and October and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily in June, July and August)

Distillery Tours and Tastings: If castles aren't your thing, how about a wee dram of Scotch whisky? You can tour and taste at the Dalmore Distillery (+44 01349 882362; open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday from April to September and Monday to Friday from October to March), located in Alness, just three miles from where you're docked. Aficionados like the small-group tours there and praise the traditional techniques. If you visit in the fall "silent season," (check the distillery's website for dates) production will be halted. Reserve in advance online. The Glenmorangie Distillery (+44 01862 892 477; open days and times vary, call for hours) also offers tours and tastings. It's located 13 miles from Invergordon and just outside of Tain.

Invergordon Golf Club: For golfers, there's a course a five-minute drive from the dock. Invergordon Golf Club offers a reasonable package that includes pickup from the quayside, club rental and cart, a round of golf, and even a dram of whisky before you're returned to your ship. (King George Street; +44 01349 852715; invergordongolf@tiscali.co.uk to book in advance)

Highland Trike Tours: If you're up for an adventure, try touring with Highland Trike Tours on a chauffeur-driven three-seated "chopper" with three wheels. Various tours visit all the area highlights. (+44 07760 483 846 or enquiries@highlandtriketours.com)

Stay in Town: Want to stick close to the ship? Grab a map of Invergordon and try to track down all 11 of the mural-bedecked buildings around town. Each painting was led by a different community group that worked with the artist on the subject matter. There's a pipe and drum corps, a landscape with ocean critters, a burning building being extinguished by the fire brigade, traditional Scottish sports and much more.

Invergordon Naval Museum and Heritage Centre: There, displays highlight Invergordon's history and three nearby castles; oil-rig models; a rescue lifeboat; and information about Polish soldiers who escaped the Germans and helped protect the area during WWII. (High Street to the right of the pier; +44 01349-852707; open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. when cruise ships are in port)

Invergordon Church of Scotland: You'll notice the steeple of the Invergordon Church of Scotland as you sail up the firth. The gray stone church has ministered to residents for more than 150 years and offers free tea and shortbread to cruise visitors.

Shopping: You might enjoy browsing the mom and pop shops along High Street. We thought there were some real finds in the Caring & Sharing (96 High Street; hours vary) charity thrift shop, including elegant silver-plated candlesticks, antique jewelry, hand-built sailing ship models and a big bucket of used golf balls.

Getting Around

On Foot: You can pretty much stroll to any place of interest in Invergordon, but to head for the Highlands, you'll need to organize transport or sign up for an excursion.

By Train: It will take you about 15 minutes to walk to the Invergordon train station. Head for High Street, then turn left. Toward the end of High Street, the train station will be to your right, down Station Road. A 50-minute journey gets you to Inverness; an hour and 20 minutes will take you to Dunrobin Castle (a request stop). Service to Dunrobin is limited, and there are no trains to that destination on Sundays. ScotRail train schedules are posted in the tourism kiosk.

By Bus: Buses can also take you to Inverness, with a connection onward to Loch Ness. It takes between 45 minutes and one hour to reach Inverness (depending on which route you take), and then after a change of bus, it's another 45 minutes or so to reach Loch Ness. You can reach the charming little town of Dornoch in about 55 minutes (no Sunday service) and Tain, home to Glenmorangie distillery, in about 35 minutes. Bus schedules, through Stagecoach Bus, are posted in the tourism kiosk.

By Taxi: Taxis should be waiting at the pier, and four companies offer taxi or private-car touring: Scotland Taxi Tours, Invergordon Shore Excursions, Invergordon Tours and Highland Classique Tours. All have set itineraries or will do custom tours; they provide four-seat cars or six- to eight-seat vehicles.

By Rental Car: You can rent a car to drive yourself from Ken's Garage (+44 01862 842266; Jane@KensGarage.co.uk). Book in advance to have a car waiting for you at the pier.

Lunching

Traditional Scottish dishes include the renowned haggis -- sheep's heart, liver and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal and spices, cooked in a sheep's stomach and traditionally served with a shot of whisky (for courage, we suspect); tatties and neeps (mashed potatoes and turnips), black pudding (blood sausage with oatmeal); and a less-scary assortment of baked goods, including scones, shortbread and oat cakes.

Invergordon is surrounded by rolling farmland and, though they're modest establishments, even the High Street cafes proudly list the sourcing for many ingredients.

The Purple Turtle: This place serves breakfast and lunch, including a traditional cooked breakfast of bacon, sausage, haggis, beans, tomato, scone, egg, black pudding and toast. Yes, that's just one meal! You also can get breakfast sandwiches and lunch sandwiches of all types, including burgers, toasted cheese and paninis -- even a haggis-and-mozzarella version, though you'll also find one with ham and Orkney cheddar or mozzarella, tomato and pesto. Try the house-baked scones and other pastries for dessert. And if you need a coffee fix, it offers espresso drinks. Wi-Fi is free with purchase. (86 High Street; +44 01349 852203; opening times vary; dollars and euros accepted in small denominations)

The Crazy Horse: This coffee shop offers a similar menu, with a few more hot items, including the full-on haggis with tatties and neeps (but no whisky). There are also baked potatoes with various toppings and bangers and mash (sausages with mashed potatoes). The menu features sandwiches, paninis, house-made pastries and espresso drinks, too. (74 High Street; +44 01349 852030; open 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday to Friday -- and 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday when a ship is in port; dollars and euros accepted in small denominations)

The Birch Tree: This is one of Invergordon's best restaurants, but to reach it, you'll need a cab to travel three miles north of town. This bistro serves fresh seasonal food that's stylishly plated. You might start with a Kintyre applewood-smoked cheese souffle, followed by a shoulder of local shire lamb with morels, and end up with an elderflower gratin or cheeses from Tain, which is located just nine miles away. At Sunday lunch, there's a fixed-priced "Sunday roast" menu. (Off the A9 road; +44 01349 853549; open noon to 2 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday for lunch; reservations required)

Port 1 - Hamburg

Hamburg, Germany

Arrival:

Departure: 7pm

Currency: Euro, (1 CAD = 0.66€)

Overview

Hamburg, Germany's foremost port and one of its most handsome cities, may also be one of Europe's most underrated destinations. Many Americans -- and even Europeans -- have yet to discover its charms, including its beautiful situation on the banks of the River Elbe and around the Alster lake, the loveliness of its mostly traditional architecture, its premier museums, and its long history and association with the powerful Hanseatic League. The city is also more sophisticated and walkable than Germany's capital, Berlin, a huge plus for visitors.

Founded back in 800 by Charlemagne, the city initially took off as a trading center, given its proximity to the rest of Northern Europe and its location on the Elbe River, which links the North Sea to inland Europe. While Hamburg was largely destroyed by Allied bombing during the Second World War, much of it was rebuilt in the traditional style, resulting in a powerful sense of continuity with the past. Few intrusive modern structures upset the skyline, so the churches and the lovely Rathaus (City Hall) dominate the cityscape. The notable exception is HafenCity, a separate district of brand-new housing, offices and cultural centers.

Today, Hamburg is a thriving north German city of just fewer than two million people with the surrounding districts doubling the population. The city thrives on its port, shipyards and international trade, and it's also a media and civil aerospace center. Not surprisingly, water is a key element in Hamburg life. The Elbe passes through the city, splitting into waterways that meander, canal-like, between handsome, brick, Victorian-era former warehouses that now serve as offices, residences and museums. Hamburg's lakes -- the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and much larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster) -- form centerpieces for the city center and its transition to the close-in residential suburbs. Parallel canals and narrow streets link the Alster and the Elbe's wide expanses. For the tourist, it's a delight to follow them.

The city has oodles of individual sights relating to its maritime heritage: excellent museums, historic ships, architectural landmarks and a church tower viewpoint. Visitors can take simple pleasure in walking the grand Elbe River promenade, the canal paths in the Speicherstadt (Warehouse District) and the lakeside footpaths. Day cruises are a popular pastime, with numerous boat operators departing from the Landungsbrucken pier to cruise the Elbe River and from Jungfernsteig for Alster trips.

Hamburg's visitors are mostly Germans and other Europeans, and most of the cruise calls are by ships carrying German-speaking passengers. However, some lines catering to North Americans are finding their way there. Cunard's Queen Mary 2 is the city's favorite caller, and one million people routinely turn out along the banks of the Elbe to see her arrive from the North Sea. Celebrity Cruises, Silversea, Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, Hurtigrutren and Ponant Cruises have followed.

Hanging Around

In HafenCity, at present, there is a cruise berth and little else nearby, but a terminal and adjacent hotel are due to be completed in the next couple of years. Access to downtown is by city bus or, for those who'd like a 20-minute stroll, by foot. But, a U-4 (underground) is under construction. A walk through the construction zone to the nearest attractions, such as the Hamburg International Maritime Museum and the Miniatur Wunderland model railway, takes about 15 minutes.

From the Elbe River berth at Altona, where the bigger ships dock, there are plenty of cafes and shops within easy walking distance along the Elbmeile. Though the city ranges upward, just behind, your best bet if heading downtown is to take a taxi or the city bus that passes along Grosse Elbstrasse, parallel to the River Elbe. The nearest S-Bahn station is Reeperbahn, a 15-minute walk through a lively entertainment and arts district.

Don't Miss

Harbor & Alster Cruises: Scenic cruises are popular in Hamburg, and visitors can choose between cruises around the harbor and on the Alster lake. Rainer Abicht Elbreederei GMBH offers one-hour harbor tours with English commentary at noon daily. The route includes the Elbe and connecting canals, with views of shipyards and major city sights. Tours depart from Landungsbrucken, bridge 1 landing (S-Bahn/U-Bahn Landungsbrucken). Alsterdampfschiffahrt E.V. operates the historic steamship St. Georg (built in 1876) on 45-minutes cruises of the Binnenalster and Aussenalster and the narrow waterways that connect the two to the canal system. The sights of the city surround you, and the lakeside Japanese cherry blossoms are a riot of color in May. (Cruises depart daily 10:45 a.m. - 5:45 p.m. S-Bahn/U-Bahn Jungfernsteig.)

St. Michaelis Church: This church was built from 1751 to 1762 in a high Baroque style. Besides touring the interior and vaulted crypt, you can climb the viewing tower for a city, river and lake panorama. (Englische Planke 1a. S-Bahn Stadthausbrucke, U-Bahn Baumwall. Open 9 a.m. - 7:30 p.m.)

Hamburger Kunsthalle: The city's major art museum, housed in three distinctively different buildings spanning 150 years, exhibits collections from Hamburg artists of the 14th century, Dutch and Flemish painters of the 16th and 17th centuries, and French and German artists of the 19th century, as well as modern art. Some of the better-known painters on view are Paul Cezanne, Albrecht Durer, Paul Gauguin, Max Liebermann, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. (Glockengiesserwall. S-Bahn/U-Bahn Hauptbahnhof. Open Tuesday - Sunday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m., Thursday to 9 p.m., Closed Monday.)

International Maritime Museum: Housed in a beautiful brick warehouse building, this museum has 10 floors of exhibits, including the Peter Tam collection of thousands of tiny ship models; full-size ship models that include a large 25-foot Lego model of Queen Mary 2; dioramas of harbors; oil paintings of naval ships; and exhibits on navigation, communication and shipbuilding. Historic film footage shows the lively activity of pre-WWII Hamburg shipping and giant passenger liners sailing overseas. (Kaispeicher B, Koreastrasse 1. U-Bahn Messberg. Open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m., Thursday to 8 p.m.)

Miniatur Wunderland: The largest model railway layout in the world is spread over two floors with sections devoted to Hamburg and its port, Germany's Harz Mountains, Scandinavia, Switzerland and the United States. Scale models, apart from 800 trains winding through the landscape, include 10,000 cars, trucks and buses; numerous ships, roads and buildings; 200,000 miniature figures and varied scenery and spots of activity, such as a ship docking and firefighters attacking a blaze at city hall. The settings go through day and night cycles. (Kehrweider 2-4. U-Bahn Baumwall or Messberg. Open Monday to Friday 9:30 a.m. - 6 p.m., Tuesday to 9 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. - 9 p.m., Sunday 8:30 a.m. - 8 p.m.)

Museum Ship Cap San Diego: This is a classic, 1960-built, refrigerated cargo ship belonging to the Hamburg-Sud (Hamburg South America Line). View the passenger cabins, officer and crew quarters, main lounge and bar, crew mess, bridge, decks, cargo holds and engine room. A snack bar serves light meals. (Uberseebrucke. U-Bahn Baumwall; S-Bahn Landungsbrucken.Open daily 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.)

Rathaus: The Neo-Renaissance City Hall, built between 1886 and 1897, houses some 647 rooms with varying decorative styles and serves as the administrative center for the State of Hamburg. It's open daily at widely varying hours with English language tours beginning hourly at 10:15 a.m. It also houses a Rathauswienkeller (city hall wine cellar), which is open to the public. The square out front is used for civic event and festivals. (U-Bahn Rathaus)

Shopping: Hamburg is a highly sophisticated city with many of the better-known stores and designers you'd find in other major European and American cities. The shopping galleries are very attractive, so you might find yourself doing a lot of looking and little buying. The principal shopping street is Monckebergstrasse (the Mo), which runs from the main railway station (Hauptbahnhof) to the city hall market square (Rathausmarkt). Alsterarkaden, an Italianate arcade, parallels the Alsterfleet and offers smaller specialty shops and outdoor cafes and restaurants. Also parallel is Neuer Wall, the most upscale street for famous designers, such as Gucci, Ferragamo and Vuitton.

Old Elbe Tunnel: Built between 1907 and 1911 for cars and pedestrians, the Old Elbe Tunnel connects Hamburg St. Pauli with Steinwerder on the opposite bank. It is a worthwhile outing on foot, especially if not taking the harbor tour, as there is a great view of Hamburg's skyline from the far side. Pedestrians have free access at all hours, Monday to Friday. Elevators or stairs take you to the tunnel level then up again on the other side. The pedestrian footpath runs alongside the two single-lane vehicular tunnels (approximately 1,400 feet). (S-Bahn and U-Bahn Landungsbrucken.)

BallinStadt (Ballin City): This relatively new museum traces -- with English and German captions -- the route from the mid-19th century, which some five million emigrants took from the port of Hamburg by sea to new lives in North and South America and Australia. The museum is built on the Veddel Island site where the emigration halls used to be. Exhibits include photographs, artifacts, ship models and passenger list records of the people who passed through there. Anyone with a German or Eastern European background will find the visit more than worthwhile. A harbor launch brings visitors directly from the cruise port at St. Pauli Landungsbrucken to Veddel. (Veddeler Bogen 2. S-Bahn Veddel - Ballinstadt. Open daily 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.)

Reeperbahn: If you are a night owl in town pre- or post-cruise, take the S-Bahn to the Reeperbahn station in St. Pauli for a mile-long strip of nightclubs, dance halls, restaurants and bars. Once a sinful playground for sailors and merchant seamen, the district is open to everyone who likes to party into the wee hours. Theater (musicals are best for non-German speakers) and, during the day, art galleries and museums have now entered the mix to soften its former reputation as the red-light district.

Blankenese: This Elbe River town is a bedroom suburb for Hamburg, offering considerable charm and wonderful views of the widening Elbe from its high banks. Most of the well-kept houses are turn-of-the-last-century, colorful and accented with tidy gardens. The S-Bahn takes about 30 minutes (Bus 48 a little longer) and boasts some good river views on the approach to Blankenese. From the station, the 15-minute walk takes you past art galleries and clothing shops on the way down to the river's promenade. Tere, cafes attract sightseers who enjoy watching the constant river traffic of barges, tugs, container vessels and ferries. For a dining treat, try the Michelin-rated Seven Seas restaurant at the Hotel Sullberg, which offers great river views and classic French gourmet cuisine. A water taxi is an alternate way to get there from Landungsbrucken.

Getting Around

The Hamburg Card is a good bet, even for a one-day visit, as it includes unlimited use of the city's transit system (HVV) of subways, elevated lines, buses and ferries. It also offers discounts from 10 to 50 percent on many of the city attractions, 10 percent for select shops and 20 percent for select restaurants. A list of attractions and discounts comes with the card, which can be purchased at the pier, Hamburg information centers, transit stations, on the buses, at the main railway station and the airport. You can purchase a one-day card for yourself, or get a better deal if you have up to five people traveling together. Often, no one asks to see the card as an honor system prevails, but don't try to slip aboard without paying the fare; if you're caught, the fines will set you back big time. It won't work to plead ignorance as an ill-informed tourist.

The transit system is comprehensive, well-run and safe. Some elevated lines afford good views of the city, the Elbe River and Alster. Make sure you get a system map, and check the direction you want to go with the strip charts on the station platform. Most rail and bus stops have illuminated signs that indicate how many minutes until the next train or bus arrives. Some ferry routes operate regular transit services along the Elbe.

There are several companies offering city tours and hop-on, hop-off buses that offer commentary in English and German. Day passes are available. With the latter, the duration for the entire route is 1.5 hours, and buses operate daily every 30 minutes from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. The main departure point for Top-Tour Hamburg's hop-on, hop-off is Hauptbahnhof (main railway station).

Taxis are plentiful at the ports and at the main railway station when ships are in town.

And, finally, if you want to work off your cruise ship "diet," check out the city's bike scheme (www.stadtrad.hamburg.de); stations are located all over town, and bikes for hire are reasonably priced. A heads-up, though: Your best bet is to register before you get there and take a look at locales for pick-up and drop-off before you arrive.

Lunching

The pontoon walkways and promenades on the Elbe River waterfront are Hamburg's main draws, and lunch spots facing the harbor are numerous. The majority of cafes and restaurants feature local seafood (Atlantic cod, plaice, mackerel, sole, whiting, crab, lobster and shrimp) from the nearby North Sea and typical German-style sausages like weisswurst (white veal or port sausages), bratwurst (smoked pork sausages) and knockwurst or knackwurst (pork &beef spiced with garlic), all served with sauerkraut. Just in from Langdungsbrucken is a lively district of Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish) restaurants with sidewalk dining in the warmer months. In general, Hamburg is a truly international city with most international cuisines represented.

For casual dining along the Elbe River waterfront, try Nordsee for fish and chips and prepared boxes of sushi. You can choose to sit at the counter or at tables outside. (Landungsbrucken, Brucke 1, open daily until late.)

One of the city's best seafood restaurants is Seepferdchen (seepferdchen.de/restaurant), located near the Altona cruise terminal and opposite the fischmarkt. It's open for lunch and dinner.

Edelcurry is a busy curry-and-wurst restaurant featuring moderately priced, popular German-style fast food like sausages with a curry sauce, decent salads and heaps of French fries. It is located in the heart of the shopping district in Neustadt. (Gross Bleichen 68. U-Bahn Jungfernsteig. Open Monday - Saturday 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sunday noon - 8 p.m.)

For the most delicious French-German infusion in a bistro atmosphere, try Restaurant Cox (www.restaurant-cox.de, Greifswalder Strasse in the St. George neighborhood), which is open for lunch and dinner.

Messmer Momentum is a stylish tea lounge that serves a full English-style afternoon tea, including scones and clotted cream, crustless sandwiches, delectable pastries, jams and jellies. The tables have views out to the canal, and attached are a tea museum and tea shop. (Am Kaiserkai 10. U-Bahn Baumwall. Open Monday - Saturday 11 am - 8 p.m.)

Fleetschlosschen, located in a historic building that was once a pilot station, is positioned opposite the maritime museum and offers Middle Eastern fare. Seating is both indoors and outdoors, and lunchtime specialties are wraps of Arab-style bread with salad, ham or tuna, and feta or mozzarella cheese with an herbal cream base. (Brooktorkai 17. Open daily for lunch and dinner.)

Churrascaria O Frango is one of a score of Portuguese-Spanish restaurants in a tight neighborhood along Ditmar Koel-Strasse and side streets just in from Landungsbrucken. The menu runs from tapas to paellas to grilled meats in wine sauces. Tables at this tucked-away, small corner restaurant are located both inside and out on the sidewalk; sit outside in the summer for a more lively atmosphere. (Reimarustrasse 17. Open daily all day until late.)

Tsao Yang is a fine-dining Chinese and Asian restaurant, located in the Hotel Atlantic Kempinski. The all-white room with bright red glasses and red vases faces the Alster. The specialty is Peking Duck with several different tasting dips. (An der Alster 72-79. Open daily noon - 3 p.m. and 6 - 11:30 p.m.)