Akureyri,
Iceland
Arrival:
10 am
Departure: 7
pm
Currency: Icelandic
krona (ISK), (1 CAD = 75 ISK), ATM at the banks, Credit cards
Overview
The second-largest city in Iceland (yet still small,
with fewer than 18,000 residents), Akureyri has become a regular stop for
cruise ships visiting the island on a Norwegian fjords cruise, as well as those
on transatlantic repositionings.
Located on Iceland's longest fjord, Eyjafjordur,
Akureyri has been settled since Vikings arrived in the 9th century and has long
been dominant in fishing, thanks to an ice-free port. Although cruise ships
only visit during the summer, the town has a healthy winter tourism scene, with
several ski resorts close by. Thus, you'll find many outdoor clothing stores,
as well as restaurants, cafes and bars, in the city's downtown.
A call in Akureyri provides cruisers with a cute town
to explore and makes a perfect gateway to northern Iceland's geothermal
phenomena. Lake Myvatn, home to bubbling hotpots, thermal baths, craters and
lava formations, is less than two hours away. For a once-in-a-lifetime
experience, consider a flightseeing trip over this geothermal wonderland; if an
eruption is going on, you might even see lava spurting into the air (as
tourists did in fall 2014, when a fissure developed in nearby Holuhraun).
Akureyri is also a good place to hire an independent tour operator
for outdoor pursuits, such as whale watching, horseback riding, hiking and Jeep
adventures. Or you can rent a car and explore the country's Ring Road. Make
sure you wear layers and bring a raincoat; Iceland's weather is notoriously
fickle even though Akureyri generally has warmer temperatures than other parts
of the island.
Hanging Around
The dock area has a visitor's center with a souvenir shop, free
Wi-Fi and restrooms. The terminal is an easy, 10-minute walk from downtown
Akureyri, and buses, taxis and tours are able to pick up passengers right
outside the dock.
Don't Miss
Church of
Akureyi: Perched on a hill overlooking the
harbor, the Church of Akureyri (official name: Akureyrarkirkja) is an Art Deco
stunner of a building. Designed by Icelandic state architect Gudjon Samuelsson
(who also built Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik), the Lutheran church has a
3,200-pipe organ and a ship suspended from the ceiling that hearkens to the
Nordic tradition of asking protection for loved ones at sea. (Free admission;
open daily, hours vary)
Godafoss: Iceland is a waterfall-lover's dream, and one of its most
historically significant, Godafoss, is only about a half hour from Akureyri.
Shaped in a classical horseshoe spanning nearly 100 feet, the falls are 39 feet
high and can be viewed from lava rocks nearby. The name, translated as
Waterfall of the Gods, comes from the year 1000, when Iceland converted from paganism
to Christianity. Legend has it that the lawspeaker (the Vikings' elected leader
of Parliament) at the time, a pagan priest named Thorgeir Thorkelsson, threw
his idols into the waterfall after he made the decision to convert.
Lake Myvatn: The outdoor activities around Lake Myvatn, about 60 miles
from Akureyri, could easily fill a day. Highlights include the sulfur-smelling
mud pots at Hverir, easy walking trails through craggy lava formations at the
folkloric troll haven Dimmuborgir, a hike up the Hverfjall crater for the
hardy, or a visit to steaming lava near Krafla caldera, a volcano that has
erupted 29 times in recorded history. Finish your visit with a soak at the
Myvatn Nature Baths, geothermal springs with a soaking lagoon and several steam
rooms. (Open 9 a.m. to midnight June 1 to August 31 and noon to 10 p.m.
September 1 to May 31; $30 per person, June 1 to August 31; $26 per person in
the offseason; swimsuits, towels and bathrobes can be rented; massage services
available with advance reservation)
Game of Thrones
Tours: The desolate landscape around Lake
Myvatn has drawn filmmakers over the years; recent flicks include the Russell
Crowe movie "Noah" and the Tom Cruise action picture
"Oblivion." But it's the critically acclaimed and immensely popular
HBO series "Game of Thrones" that draws tourists. Lake Myvatn and its
environs serve as the stand-in for the wintery "beyond the wall"
scenes in Season 2. Naturally, tour operators have taken advantage of this, and
you'll find daylong Game of Thrones tours leaving from Akureyri. Your ticket
usually includes roundtrip transportation to the remote locations by a super
Jeep (jacked up to traverse rough terrain) and often a stop at the Myvatn
Nature Baths.
Whale-watching: The North Atlantic is a haven for a multitude of whale
species, and seeking out bottlenose, humpback or minke whales is a popular
excursion. You can either take a tour directly from Akureyri or drive yourself
to Husavik, considered the "whale watching capital of Europe" (about
90 minutes away). If you go, save time for the excellent Husavik Whale Museum.
(Open 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily June to August and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. May and
September)
Horseback
Riding: As you traverse the countryside,
you'll see Icelandic horses, notably smaller than most breeds, grazing by the
side of the road. But don't mistake their size for a lack of power. In addition
to the regular gaits all horses know, Icelandic horses are born with their own
speedy version known as the toit, making a horseback riding expedition a must
for equine-lovers. Numerous operators run excursions in the Akureyri area;
Skjaldarvik, a few miles north of town, has 90-minute rides daily at 10 a.m., 2
p.m. and 5 p.m. (with free access to a hot tub after your excursion).
Flightseeing: If you have the budget, Akureyri is a good base
for flightseeing over some of Iceland's most unusual terrain. In fall
2014, companies such as Iceland Travel, Saga Tours and Nonni Travel were
offering flights over the raging Holuhraun lava field from the Bardabunga
volcano. Even if that cools down, you'll be able to see dramatic landscape such
as the Askja caldera, Lake Myvatn and Vatnajokull, the monster glacier that
makes up 10 percent of the island. Another option is a flight to Grimsey
Island, which is Iceland's only point north of the Arctic Circle. You can view
puffins and icebergs, and you'll receive a certificate proving northern
exposure.
Motorcycle
Museum of Iceland: If the rain is too much for
you, Akureyri offers a host of museums and attractions, most within walking
distance of the port. If you spend your weekends riding the road, you'll
appreciate the Motorcycle Museum of Iceland, which dives into the history of
hogs on the island, in a building that was especially designed to house the
bikes (Krokeyri 2; open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily June 1 to August 31)
Botanical Garden: The Botanical Garden is the northernmost park of its kind in
the world, with 430 native plants and 6,600 other species (Eyrarlandsholt; open8
a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from
June 1 to September 30)
Getting Around
On Foot: Akureyri is extremely walkable. The town center is less than
10 minutes from the cruise port.
By Taxi: Taxis, located on the street across from the cruise terminal
parking lot, are available for two- to six-hour private tours. Prices are
displayed on a street placard and include gratuity; Iceland is not a tipping
culture.
By Car: The Lake Myvatn area has many sites you can visit on your own
if you have a car. Europcar has a rental office within the cruise terminal, and
familiar brands such as Dollar, Thrifty, Budget and Avis are a short walk away
(as well as the Icelandic company Icelandcar). Reservations are recommended in
the prime summer months (June, July and August).
Lunching
Prepare yourself for sticker shock if you eat off the
ship. Iceland's food is notoriously expensive. Seafood and lamb are staples in
this agricultural land surrounded by sea, and the soups made from these
ingredients make a particularly satisfying (and warming) lunch, especially when
served with hunks of delicious brown bread. If you're an adventurous eater,
you'll want to seek out hakari, fermented (rotten) shark that's often served
with brennivin, a clear spirit. If the ammonia taste and smell of the shark
don't make you gag, the strong licorice flavor of the drink will.
Alaska Mini
Mart: For a quick snack, the Alaska Mini Mart
has smoothies and interesting paninis (chicken, mango and peanut sauce), as
well as sodas and convenience store staples, at wallet-friendly prices.
(Radhustorg 3; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)
Simstooin Cafe: This spot is located on Hafnarstaeti, Akureyri's main
pedestrian shopping street. With a fish of the day and a raw food of the day,
it's a good choice for those with food allergies. Plus, it has free Wi-Fi.
(Hafnarstraeti 102; open 9a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)
Blaa Kannan: Also on Hafnarstaeti, cozy Blaa Kannan offers delicious
pastries and coffee, as well as fresh-baked bread and hearty soups for lunch.
(Hafnarstaeti 96; open 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily)
Rub 23: Across the street from the church, Rub 23 has a trendy mix of
seafood and sushi (including minke whale, a somewhat controversial dish). The
restaurant is tops on TripAdvisor and features an intriguing "sushi
pizza" made with Arctic char. (Kaupvangsstraeti 6; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2
p.m. weekdays)
Strikid: If you're looking for a restaurant with a view, Strikid offers
heartier meals than the cafes on Hafnarstaeti. Icelandic specialties include
langoustines, pan-fried cod, slow-cooked lamb shank and -- occasionally --
fermented shark. (Skipagata 14; open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily)
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